United Kingdom – Page 2

Ysgyryd Fawr (Skirrid), Wales

A quick loop hike surrounded by splendid scenery

It’s not often I have an opportunity for a mid-week ‘bonus’ hike, but on a day spent driving across Wales, from Conwy on the north coast to Cardiff on the south coast, it’s hard not to stop somewhere in the midst of that magnificent countryside and go for a hike. I selected a small mountain called Ysgyryd Fawr, better known as Skirrid, because the AllTrails description touts its spectacular panoramic scenery. Of course, as I pulled into the trailhead car park, rain started to fall and I found myself sitting in the car, wondering whether it was worth heading out. It was!

Hikers ascend Skirrid, a small mountain in south Wales.

Conwy, Wales

A weekend in and around the historic village of Conwy.

After my previous post, about an early morning hike over Mount Conwy on the north coast of Wales, we spent another two days exploring the delightful and historic medieval village of Conwy (“conn-wee”) — which King Edward I established in 1283 by constructing (in just four years!) a massive castle and a new city surrounded by a 1.3km fortified wall.

The 13th-century castle and fortified walls in Conwy, Wales.

The village is best known for Conwy Castle, completed in 1287 and still one of the most intact (and imposing!) of the 400+ castles in Wales.

Mount Conwy (Wales)

A six-mile loop outside of a thirteenth-century castle village.

We are spending the weekend in Wales, including a few nights in the charming village of Conwy (CONN-wee) on the north coast. Shortly after sunrise this morning, I left the center of this historic village to hike a six mile loop up and over Mynydd Y Dref (Conwy Mountain), the dominant hill overlooking the village. Spectacular!

Mynydd Y Dref (Conwy Mountain) seen from the outskirts of Conwy, Wales.

Big Ben

Up close and personal.

Elizabeth Tower seen from Westminster Bridge.

This week we had the opportunity to climb Elizabeth Tower, better known by the nickname of its largest, most famous bell: Big Ben.

Elizabeth Tower, which is part of the Palace of Westminster (home to the British Parliament), is a clock tower completed in 1859 and named in 2012 after Queen Elizabeth II for her Diamond Jubilee. It is perhaps one of the most iconic landmarks in London. We were lucky to nab tickets for a tour – which are very limited and I tried several months before succeeding.

Oxbridge jubilee

Visits to Cambridge and Oxford universities, and a long loop hike outside Oxford.

This week I had the opportunity to visit Cambridge University on Wednesday, and Oxford University on Friday, to meet colleagues and present my research. (Together, these universities are colloquially known as “Oxbridge”.) The weather continues to be sunny and beautiful, so I took the opportunity to explore each of these historic cities – and to get out into the Oxfordshire countryside for a delightful hike.

A lamb in a pasture outside Oxford, England.

Chelsea Flower Show

The world’s most famous flower show.

One of London’s most incredible annual events is the Chelsea Flower Show, which is hosted within walking distance of our flat. Several hundred thousand people visit this incredible, indoor-outdoor show over five days. Outdoors, elite gardeners install elaborate bespoke gardens with flowers, greenery, water features, stone walls, furniture, and more… that showcase remarkable skill and creativity. Indoors, under a massive tent, gardeners and florists show off their most exquisite flowers and designs. Competition is fierce for the top awards.

Sale, Prestbury, and Lyme Park

A visit to my birthplace.

Fun fact: a bit more than six decades ago, I was born in England. I departed for the United States only three months later… so I have no memory of my birth country. Thus, the opportunity to spend a year living in London, and exploring England, has been especially meaningful. This week we took a roadtrip to the Manchester area to find my birthplace and to visit some of my parents’ friends.

My birthplace (then a maternity hospital) – Sale, Cheshire, England.

Thames Path – Chelsea to Westminster

34th consecutive weekend hike

Although the weather has been beautiful this weekend, I had little time for hiking. So, today I chose to walk a portion of the Thames Path. This long-distance path begins at the source of the Thames, in the Cotswolds, and follows the river downstream for 185 miles to Woolwich, London. (Regular readers may recall my brief visit to that downstream endpoint, at the famous Thames River Barrier, two months ago.) Today I began my walk in Chelsea, walked along the embankment until I reached the Parliament building, then turned back inland toward home.

Phoenix benches along the River Thames, London.

Shetland Otter

An incredible encounter!

While we were visiting the beautiful beach at Muckle Roe – an island on the west coast of the Shetland Islands – we spotted an otter running toward the surf. It quickly disappeared under the water, but I kept close watch and saw his head appear occasionally as he hunted in a shallow bed of kelp among the rocks a few meters offshore. Then – ahah! – he caught something. I watched him swim toward shore, a crab squirming in his jaws, just barely above the surface of the water. He reached the shore, but just behind a large boulder, where I could no longer see him. I grabbed my long lens and walked quietly down the beach, behind the boulder, and peered over. There he was, just a few meters away, gnawing on his crab!

An otter pauses while eating a crab, at Muckle Roe Beach in the Shetlands.

Shetland Islands

A magical place at 60º North.

After a week spent exploring Scotland’s mainland – if one can refer to the ‘mainland’ of what is, after all, part of an island – we boarded a large ferry in Aberdeen for an overnight cruise to the Shetland Islands. Located around 60º North latitude (more than 100 miles north of the mainland), this windswept archipelago in the North Sea is well-known for its stunning scenery and its hardy residents. We had three days to explore and found that was barely enough to experience the main island, and its hub settlement of Lerwick, without hopping any of the short ferries to outlying islands. Once again we were incredibly lucky with the weather! Let me share a few highlights and a gallery of photos.