We are spending the weekend in Wales, including a few nights in the charming village of Conwy (CONN-wee) on the north coast. Shortly after sunrise this morning, I left the center of this historic village to hike a six mile loop up and over Mynydd Y Dref (Conwy Mountain), the dominant hill overlooking the village. Spectacular!
I chose this route, which appears to be extremely popular on AllTrails, largely because it includes a lengthy traverse across the rugged hills to the southwest of Conwy. This largely treeless, open terrain offers panoramic views of Conwy (the village, the castle, and the river) and the pastoral landscape around them. I was pleased, after strolling through the 739-year-old stone gates of the medieval wall and up the quiet streets that count as ‘suburbs’ in this tiny village, to pass through a farm gate and into pastureland. I spent the next hour passing from pasture to pasture, sharing a hearty “good morning!” with the curious cows and sheep in each field. (I saw no people; ah, the joy of hiking at 5am on a Sunday!)
As the route turned northwest, I ascended toward the higher, rocky terrain of the hilltops, with names like Craigyfedwen, Cogwrn, Allt Wen, and Penmaen Bach. The views became more expansive, and the coastline of the Irish Sea appeared to my left. I crossed into a natural area managed by Pensychnant Conservation Centre – a mix of forest and hillsides covered in ferns and heather. Here I saw a lone sheep in the distance, bleating as if it had lost its way, following the trails uphill.
When the route turned back east, toward Mount Conwy, and began to climb its long ridgeline, I saw for the first time some blue sky and a hint that the sun was going to break through the morning clouds. Hope rose for a sunny view at the summit! But, as I reached the summit area – itself the site of an Iron-age fortified settlement, Caer Lleion – raindrops began to fall. Although just a light shower, it was driven sideways by strong winds and sprinkled with tiny hailstones. Ah! the joy of hiking in Wales.
The view was nonetheless spectacular, as Conwy village and its magnificent castle came into view. I was glad I’d chosen to follow this route clockwise, because now my descent would be facing toward Conwy the entire way (rather than keeping that lovely view at my back, if I’d come up this way). The rain tapered off as I followed the trail back toward town.
Conwy Castle dominated my attention. It’s not often one descends a mountain on a grassy trail, bordered by blooming heather, with a massive medieval castle as the centerpiece of the view. Hmm. It’s also not often that I descend a mountain on a grassy trail, bordered by blooming heather, and encounter a lone horse in the middle of the trail. No people, or other horses, anywhere nearby. It glanced up at me, but then calmly went back to its work, trimming the grass on the trail. Always grateful for those who do trailwork, I called out my thanks as I passed by.
After returning to Conwy village, the route follows a bike path along the edge of the Conwy river upstream toward Conwy harbor and the incredible riverside castle. Wildflowers burst from crevices in the stone wall, adding color to an otherwise gray morning.
In such beautiful countryside, on such a pleasant morning, it’s hard not to take lots of photographs. Please enjoy a curated selection in the photo gallery! More about Conwy itself, in a few days.
Hike stats: (my 37th consecutive weekend hike)
Distance: 6.3 miles (10.1km)
Time: 2h36m
Gain: 846 feet (258m)
GaiaGPS track
David Kotz 