This week I had the opportunity to visit Cambridge University on Wednesday, and Oxford University on Friday, to meet colleagues and present my research. (Together, these universities are colloquially known as “Oxbridge”.) The weather continues to be sunny and beautiful, so I took the opportunity to explore each of these historic cities – and to get out into the Oxfordshire countryside for a delightful hike.
Cambridge
My visit to Cambridge was a quick day trip – just an hour from London by train. But it was a beautiful day so I decided to walk from the Cambridge station to the Computer Science building, following a route that crossed meadows and the River Cam as well as quiet city streets through the university area.
On the way back, I stopped in at King’s College Chapel. Its architecture and acoustics are stunningly beautiful, so I was glad to arrive just minutes before the daily Evensong service. Although I am not religious, it was a pleasure to listen to the choir’s beautiful singing and to share a peaceful hour with others gathered for the event.
Just around the corner, I popped into a historic pub, The Eagle, for dinner. There has been a tavern on this location since at least 1343. This pub, which opened in 1667, is particularly known for two events in the twentieth century [Wikipedia]: Francis Crick and James Watson, who were pub regulars, burst into the pub in 28 February 1953 to announce that they had “discovered the secret of life” after they had come up with their proposal for the structure of DNA. Earlier, during World War II, airmen from the RAF and the USAF hung out here, and had a habit of writing their names on the walls and ceilings… most of which has been preserved and is still visible.
I’ve posted just a small photo gallery from my day in Cambridge. I was last here on a brief visit in 2019, with more photos. Next time, I want to go punting on the River Cam! (I thought perhaps the name of the city, Cambridge, refers to a bridge over the River Cam. Kinda yes, kinda no: read more.)
Oxford
The city of Oxford is also just an hour from London, by train. Before heading to the Computer Science department I had a chance to meet up with some other Dartmouth Outing Club alums in a Gails café… what a treat! After my seminar at the university I stayed overnight in Oxford so could spend Saturday hiking (see below) and exploring the city “the Victorian poet Matthew Arnold called… ‘the city of dreaming spires’ after the stunning architecture of [its] university buildings” [HistoricUK]. Saturday afternoon was hot and the city was bustling with tourists. I strolled through some of the historic areas of the town center, took a bus tour, explored the famous (and massive) Blackwell’s Bookstore, and snagged some well-earned gelato. Even though I’d visited here in 2019, I would love to return and explore more deeply. Oxford is truly a photogenic place – see the photo gallery. (Oxford’s name is more obviously literal: the place ‘where the oxen ford’ the River Thames.)
Oxford Jubilee Walk
I spent Saturday morning hiking the Oxford Jubilee Walk, which is a marked route created by the Oxford Ramblers (a local hiking club). The route is not very well marked, actually, so I was glad to have downloaded a GPX file from AllTrails. The route starts and ends at Folly Bridge on the River Thames, and follows a ten-mile circuitous route beside the Thames, along quiet country lanes, through rare fens, across vast hilltop meadows, and through pastures active with horses, cows, or sheep, rolling up and down through very pretty countryside. In several places, it offers broad panoramic views.
My walk was actually longer, because I had to walk almost two miles from my hotel to reach the Thames, and (after completing the loop just before noon) decided to walk into the city center where I could find a pub for lunch. I was glad to have started early, in the cool of the morning, because it was a brilliantly sunny day and the temperatures rose quickly. I sat outside the pub enjoying a pie and a pint in the midday breeze.
But let me back up a bit. Toward the end of my hike, the route rejoins the River Thames, and the banks of the river are lined with Oxford University boathouses – one for each College. As it happens, today was the fourth and final day of the annual Summer Eights regatta, in which mens’ and womens’ crew teams compete on behalf of their College. What lucky timing! “Summer Eights is the largest and most famous intercollegiate rowing event in Oxford. It is a ‘bump’ race, meaning boats start at intervals, and a crew’s objective is to catch and physically tag the boat in front of them without being tagged themselves.” [Google AI.] I enjoyed watching teams preparing their shells, and rowing along the Thames (which, at this point, is effectively a canal).
Sadly, according to a student photographer whom I asked to explain the event, the event was rather subdued this year. Apparently, he said, a 14-year-old boy (a spectator, not a rower) had drowned on the first day. I noted that all the boathouses had their flags at half-mast, and later learned “it was announced that racing was to continue as scheduled, but without the typical accompanying music and celebration, out of respect.” [Oxford Blue]
Despite that sad note, the hike overall was delightful! The photo gallery includes many photos and one brief video.
Hike stats: (my 36th consecutive weekend hike)
Distance: 12.4 miles (20km)
Gain: 580 feet (177m)
Time: 4h50m
GaiaGPS track
David Kotz 