David Kotz

Roman Silchester

A sunny hike through English countryside west of London, with a stop at 2000-year-old Roman ruins.

Another sunny day called for another excursion outside London, for a walk through the beautiful English countryside. I hopped off the train in tiny Mortimer, which is little more than a train depo, a church, a pub selling Indian cuisine, and a few houses. Soon I was traversing fields of wheat, crossing pastures with grazing cows, and following a lazy stream across the flat terrain. I tried to imagine what this landscape looked like two thousand years ago, when the Romans arrived and built an amphitheater. I was about to find out.

Surprising blue fields outside Mortimer, England.

King’s Birthday Parade

The most significant ceremonial event of the year, including Trooping the Colours.

One can certainly say one thing about the British: they know pageantry! Today, on a beautiful early summer’s day, was the annual King’s Birthday Parade, the most important of the three occasions for the Trooping of the Colour. Indeed, this is the most important ceremonial occasion of the year for the Royal Family. I live only a few blocks from Buckingham Palace… so I could not resist the opportunity to watch. Wow! what a scene.

The King’s Birthday Parade to the Trooping of the Colour.

Ysgyryd Fawr (Skirrid), Wales

A quick loop hike surrounded by splendid scenery

It’s not often I have an opportunity for a mid-week ‘bonus’ hike, but on a day spent driving across Wales, from Conwy on the north coast to Cardiff on the south coast, it’s hard not to stop somewhere in the midst of that magnificent countryside and go for a hike. I selected a small mountain called Ysgyryd Fawr, better known as Skirrid, because the AllTrails description touts its spectacular panoramic scenery. Of course, as I pulled into the trailhead car park, rain started to fall and I found myself sitting in the car, wondering whether it was worth heading out. It was!

Hikers ascend Skirrid, a small mountain in south Wales.

Conwy, Wales

A weekend in and around the historic village of Conwy.

After my previous post, about an early morning hike over Mount Conwy on the north coast of Wales, we spent another two days exploring the delightful and historic medieval village of Conwy (“conn-wee”) — which King Edward I established in 1283 by constructing (in just four years!) a massive castle and a new city surrounded by a 1.3km fortified wall.

The 13th-century castle and fortified walls in Conwy, Wales.

The village is best known for Conwy Castle, completed in 1287 and still one of the most intact (and imposing!) of the 400+ castles in Wales.

Mount Conwy (Wales)

A six-mile loop outside of a thirteenth-century castle village.

We are spending the weekend in Wales, including a few nights in the charming village of Conwy (CONN-wee) on the north coast. Shortly after sunrise this morning, I left the center of this historic village to hike a six mile loop up and over Mynydd Y Dref (Conwy Mountain), the dominant hill overlooking the village. Spectacular!

Mynydd Y Dref (Conwy Mountain) seen from the outskirts of Conwy, Wales.

Big Ben

Up close and personal.

Elizabeth Tower seen from Westminster Bridge.

This week we had the opportunity to climb Elizabeth Tower, better known by the nickname of its largest, most famous bell: Big Ben.

Elizabeth Tower, which is part of the Palace of Westminster (home to the British Parliament), is a clock tower completed in 1859 and named in 2012 after Queen Elizabeth II for her Diamond Jubilee. It is perhaps one of the most iconic landmarks in London. We were lucky to nab tickets for a tour – which are very limited and I tried several months before succeeding.

Oxbridge jubilee

Visits to Cambridge and Oxford universities, and a long loop hike outside Oxford.

This week I had the opportunity to visit Cambridge University on Wednesday, and Oxford University on Friday, to meet colleagues and present my research. (Together, these universities are colloquially known as “Oxbridge”.) The weather continues to be sunny and beautiful, so I took the opportunity to explore each of these historic cities – and to get out into the Oxfordshire countryside for a delightful hike.

A lamb in a pasture outside Oxford, England.

Lisbon in two days

A return to my 1979 home turf.

We traveled to Lisbon for a weekend of sunshine and memories. My family and I lived just outside Lisbon in 1979, so it was a treat for me to return to Lisbon with my parents so we could re-visit some of our favorite places, eat some our favorite foods, and re-connect with some of their lifelong Portuguese friends. (And, as I wrote yesterday, to hike through the wildflowers and green forests of Monsanto Park.)

Lisboa – Monsanto

Hiking around a high point in Lisbon.

As part of three-day holiday-weekend visit to Lisbon, I took advantage of the beautiful late-spring weather to hike the trilho azul de Monsanto (blue trail) loop around Parque Florestal de Monsanto (Monsanto Forest Park), the largest green space in Lisbon, perched on a hilltop overlooking the city. In the cool morning air, I had the entire park virtually to myself – with blue skies, a gentle breeze, and wildflowers blooming.

Lisbon’s Monsanto Forest Park contains a diverse range of forest habitats.

Chelsea Flower Show

The world’s most famous flower show.

One of London’s most incredible annual events is the Chelsea Flower Show, which is hosted within walking distance of our flat. Several hundred thousand people visit this incredible, indoor-outdoor show over five days. Outdoors, elite gardeners install elaborate bespoke gardens with flowers, greenery, water features, stone walls, furniture, and more… that showcase remarkable skill and creativity. Indoors, under a massive tent, gardeners and florists show off their most exquisite flowers and designs. Competition is fierce for the top awards.