Homeless in Switzerland

Even in the richest country in the world, there are homeless people.

We live in a rented flat on the edge of the richest neighborhood (Oberstrass) in the richest city (Zürich) in the richest country in the world (Switzerland).  Everything is neat and orderly.  The Swiss run the country like the clockwork for which they are duly famous. And the social safety net is strong, as I’ve heard from Swiss colleagues who have explained the systems for education, healthcare, disability, retirement, and unemployment.  Even in the tiny rural villages through which I’ve hiked, the homes are tidy and the farms are clean and organized.

Nonetheless, there are homeless people in Switzerland.

Indeed, when the international aid organization Doctors Without Borders recently set up field hospitals near Geneva, one of their explicit goals was to support the homeless. “Between 3,000 to 5,000 homeless people and at-risk migrants are believed to live in the canton of Geneva”, according to an article in TheLocal. As the organization noted, “people living in overcrowded conditions, on the streets, in makeshift camps or in substandard housing are at particular risk (from the corona virus)”.

Those numbers surprised me, because until recently I held the illusion that there were no homeless people in Switzerland.  Indeed, at least two Swiss colleagues in my office told me, independently, how shocked they were when they went to a meeting in California and found the streets littered with homeless people. Such sights were totally unfamiliar to them, and also surprising. They expected to see such things in third-world countries, they said, but not in the purportedly great United States. (Sadly, as we from the U.S. know all too well, America does an embarrassingly poor job assisting its homeless.)

In recent months, however, I’ve noticed two homeless people in the heart of Zürich.  I recently walked down Bahnhofstrasse, reputedly the most expensive retail real estate in the world (perhaps second only to New York’s Fifth Avenue), normally bustling with shoppers but deserted on this corona-tinged Saturday morning.  There, in the entryway for Läderach chocolate (closed, like all the other shops on Bahnhofstrasse) was a person sleeping, bundled against the cold – likely the same homeless man I’d seen on this block well before the corona situation. The contrast was stark, between this poor fellow and this high-end chocolatier targeting the 1% of chocolate shoppers.  It made me wonder about those vaunted Swiss systems for assisting such people, and how this fellow slipped through the cracks.

2020-04-04-82130.jpg

For the past two weeks I’ve encountered an older man at the edge of the woods, where the posh Oberstrass neighborhood meets the hilltop forest. Each time I see him, early in the morning, he is carrying a bedroll and some bags of provisions, and appears to be on the move.  Today, it appears he is camping at a popular picnic spot; as I passed this morning, his overnight fire was still smoldering next to his cookpot and other provisions.
2020-04-09-82196.jpg

Again, I do not know why this man is sleeping outdoors.  Did he lose his job and his home, perhaps due to the corona situation?  Or perhaps he is infected, and chooses to sleep outdoors to protect others in his home?  Or perhaps his partner is a medical professional and he has left home to protect himself from potential infection? Or perhaps he is a medical professional, working days at the hospital and sleeping nights in the park, to protect his family? Or perhaps he is a long-time homeless person, who just happened to move into my neck of the woods this month.  I doubt I will ever know.

Anyway, I am generally impressed by the Swiss and by Switzerland, yet remain curious how they address the challenge of tending to the most needy, especially in times of crisis.

ds Zigermannli – Röthlisberger

Röthlisberger statue on Zurichberg.

The high point of my morning walk is a viewpoint on Zürichberg that overlooks the city, the lake, and the hills and Alpine mountains beyond.  But I often walk further, following the path south along the slope.  Within a few hundred meters I pass a pleasant little park that currently includes an installation of bronze statues by Zürich artist Freddy Air Röthlisberger.  I find these pieces captivating, in part because each comes with a brief explanation that provides a tidbit of Swiss history.   I’ll post them in a series.  The first tidbit is particularly tasty :-).

2019-11-19-75927.jpg2019-11-19-75926.jpg2019-11-19-75925.jpg

ETH Sphinx

A mysterious pair of lamps outside the ETH main building.

Gold-painted lampposts outside ETH main building.On sunny days it can be nice to walk past the west side the ETH main building – where there is an expansive stone courtyard with spectacular views across the city and to the distant Alps.  It’s long struck me as odd that the west entrance to this classical-style building, in rather drab grey stone, is flanked by a pair of golden lampposts.

Surely they are not made of gold, or even painted with gold paint, but on a sunny day they are nonetheless brilliant in their contrast with the surroundings.  Each is supported with three legs, each of which is a buxom one-legged sphinx character.  Apparently sphinx icons were quite popular in Europe during the Rennaissance.

I can find no online explanation for the ETH lamps, nor any nearby signage to indicate the meaning or import of these lamps and their golden paint.  The base of each lamp indicates the name of its foundry, in nearby Winterthur, but no more.  Perhaps they are a warning to the students who enter ETH, based on the traditional Greek origin of the sphinx: “She is mythicised as treacherous and merciless. Those who cannot answer her riddle suffer a fate typical in such mythological stories, as they are killed and eaten by this ravenous monster.” [Wikipedia]

2020-03-25-82121.jpg2020-03-25-82122.jpg

Morning walk

A time-lapse movie of my walk to Zürichberg.

I enjoy my walk to Zurichberg every day, and have long wanted to share it.  So today I experimented with a time-lapse movie.  The walk to the viewpoint took me 23 minutes; the movie will take you one minute to watch.  (For the steep parts you unfortunately get a close look at the stairs, not the pretty scenery.  I’ll have to experiment further!)

The map below is from another day, when I continued clockwise past the “End” to return home.

walk map

A long walk from Zurichberg

An eleven-mile walk down the ridgeline from Zurichberg and down to the lake.

It was a beautiful spring day, one of those early warm days that draw you outdoors.  With the prospect of alpine hikes unlikely for the coming months, due to safety issues involving avalanches or coronavirus (or both), I decided to walk closer to home.

I climb straight up to the top of Zurichberg every morning, with its lovely view of the distant alps.  From that viewpoint I’ve often wondered whether it’s possible to walk down that ridgeline, parallel to the lake.  After lunch, I headed up my usual route to Zurichberg.  Unlike in the early morning, it was bustling with people… older couples out for a stroll, young families with toddlers in tow, hipsters running with their headphones, and hardcore mountain bikers zipping by.  I picked a less-traveled route, but soon discovered that these hills above Zürich are covered with a web of gravel paths, all well maintained, well signed, and well mapped… and today, well populated.

I walked through hardwood forests, with stacks of impressive logs, recently cut, demonstrating how they thin these forests for both the health of the forest and the revenue and raw materials it can produce.  I passed small family groups building campfires, or setting out a picnic lunch on a table. I passed couples enjoying a couple glasses of wine on a shared bench.  I walked through meadows with wildflowers blooming.  And when I decided to head downhill, toward the lake, I wandered the small lanes of suburban towns where people were out preparing their gardens for spring.  A lovely scene.2020-03-28-82109.jpg

At Tiefenbrunnen I hopped the S6 back to Zürich, paying an extra two bucks for 1st class and I had a train car all to myself for the 15 minute ride.

Most people were careful about social distancing, keeping to the opposite side of the path so I could pass them with the recommended 2m separation.  But some were not so careful, and sometimes it was too narrow or too crowded to be truly separated.  In retrospect, after passing several hundred people on the trails today, I would have been better off spending 2-3 hours on an empty train to reach a distant trailhead for an empty trail.

I took few photos and have no gallery, but I include a few interesting scenes below the map.

Stats: 11 miles, 3.5 hours.

Screen Shot 2020-03-28 at 8.46.45 PM.png
My route is shown in blue, starting at top center and ending bottom center. I forgot to start the track at home, so it actually starts on Zürichberg just before I left my usual turf and headed into the great unknown to its southeast.

2020-03-28-82105.jpg2020-03-28-82100.jpg2020-03-28-82110.jpg

Braunwald to Schwanden

A lovely solo hike from Braunwald, across the high country and down to the valley village of Schwanden.

Sometimes I just need to get in a few miles of post-holing.  And when the view is this good, why not?  After completing a major deadline yesterday, I really needed to get away from the computer and out into the Real World for a while.  Given the rapid onset of spring in Zürich, I wanted one last taste of winter.  Switzerland closed all the ski areas (early) on Monday, so none of those facilities was an option.  But our walk in Braunwald, two weeks ago, left me wishing to go back.  I found a longer walk, from the same starting point, and so I jumped a train back to Braunwald.*  Read on, and check out the photo gallery.

2020-03-20-82020.jpg
Bösbächibach brook and the peaks (L to R) of Eggstock, Gassenstock, and Bösbächistock.

Continue reading “Braunwald to Schwanden”

Uetliberg walk

A lovely walk above Zurich today.

My plan for the weekend had been to get out skiing, one more time… but work kept me indoors despite beautiful weather. Sadly, Switzerland just ordered all ski areas to close today, so I guess that’s the end of the season for me.  I needed to get out, so I took a tram across town and hiked up Uetliberg, the big hill dominating Zurich’s west side.  It was sunny and warm, and a few green leaves and flowers poked up among the leaf litter.  The birds sang, and the views of the Alps were spectacular.  I decided to take a less-direct route down, starting on the Schlittelweg – a trail designed specifically for people who want to sled from the top of the mountain to the bottom.  Very cool – except that it never snowed more than a dusting this winter, so the trail likely never saw use this year.

IMG_9903

As I followed this trail, I came to a lovely picnic area. I love how the Swiss maintain truly functional firepits, and tables, and even a custom water fountain.  (All the public fountains run constantly, with city water, and are thus cold and tasty and clean year-round.)

IMG_9905

As I left this little park, a man was practicing his Alphorn – the long tubular horn that rests on the ground and into which a standing musician blows.  His tunes resonated across the valley as I descended, spanning a repertoire from Christmas music to the Star Spangled Banner.

I soon came to a sign advertising the ruins of a castle, and decided to investigate.  Burg Friesenberg turned out to be the jumbled walls of a tiny structure, smaller than most modern homes.  It was surrounded by construction fencing, with signs indicating its condition had deteriorated (no doubt, because previously people had climbed all over it and held campfire outings inside).

IMG_9908.jpg

On the way down, I passed another lovely picnic area with another nifty fountain.

IMG_9904.jpg

On the way home I stopped into the store for some essentials.  The COVID-19 situation has been getting more serious, every day, and everyone expects Switzerland may soon lock down the country.  So we stocked up on the four Swiss food groups: cheese, wurst, chocolate, and beer.

IMG_9910.jpg

Sure enough, this evening the federal government announced that they were closing the borders to most non-residents, closing all “shops, markets, restaurants, bars, entertainment and leisure establishments such as museums, libraries, cinemas, concert halls, theatres, sports centres, swimming pools and ski areas….”

Difficult times ahead.  I’m glad I got out to enjoy a bit of nature today.

Braunwald to Nussbüel

A beautiful walk from Braunwald to Nussbüel for lunch at an alpine restaurant.

Although it certainly feels like spring in Zürich – what with the daffodils blooming everywhere and tulips soon to come – it’s still early March and I’m still eager for some more winter.  So Andy and I hopped the S25 out of Zürich this morning and headed for the Glarusalps, hoping to get a little time in the snow.  Ninety minutes later we boarded a funicular train for the village of Braunwald, high above the Glarus valley, and soon left behind the green valley for a winter wonderland.  Read on, and check the photo gallery.

2020-03-08-81783.jpg Continue reading “Braunwald to Nussbüel”

Fasnacht Zurich

The annual Fasnacht celebration in Zurich, with dueling bands in wild costumes.

Many Swiss and German cultures celebrate Fasnacht, an event with a fascinating centuries-old history.  I had hoped to attend the legendary celebration in Basel this week, but it was cancelled due to concerns about coronavirus and large crowds.  Zurich cancelled its big parade, but proceeded with the rest of its  a three-day weekend celebration of street music by informal bands dressed in wild costumes. In this “ZüriCarneval,” nearly every square in old town had a band and food trucks, making for a festive atmosphere.  As the city website notes, the core event is “various ‘Guggen’ bands – mostly brass ensembles – playing well-known melodies very loudly and intentionally out of tune.”  I enjoyed strolling the streets and capturing some of the scenes and faces.  Check out the gallery!

2020-03-01-81631.jpg