Grindelwald – Berghaus Bäregg

Stunning views from our walk toward some glaciers above Grindelwald.

For the second hike of our week-long visit to Grindelwald, we chose the opposite side of the valley, a deep canyon formed by the Ischmeer Glacier, whose remnants cling to the high slopes of 4000-meter peaks like Schreckhorn, Finsteraarhorn, and Feischerhorn.  Our primary goal was the Berghaus Bäregg – literally, mountain house at bear corner – which we rightly anticipated would provide a sunny lunch spot with spectacular views of the glacier.  Our stretch goal was to continue onward to Schreckhornhütte, another hut far upslope at elevation 2,527m.  Although we turned around when we reached 6,000’ (1829m) we enjoyed the sunny meadows strewn with wildflowers; views of glaciers and snowfields spawning massive waterfalls and cascades; and challenging sections of trail where it clung to the cliffside or crossed massive washouts.  And, a hearty lunch at the Berghaus!  Read on, and check out the gallery.

View from Berghaus Bäregg, toward the Ischmeer glacier; the trail continues level across the green slope at left and around the corner.
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Grindelwald: Bussalp to Waldspitz

Our first hike above Grindelwald brought us out of the clouds and into spectacular scenery.

Our first hike out of Grindelwald was a relatively low-altitude stroll across the high terrain above town, from the end of the bus line at Bussalp to the end of another bus line at Waldspitz. The sky was cloudy as the bus wound up the steep and twisty road from Grindelwald, past the holiday homes and into the farm country high above town. Still, the clouds looked like they were struggling to hold form as the daylight grew stronger, so we headed up the trail in high spirits. Soon we were following a narrow track that meandered among the cows, across streams, and through meadows strewn with wildflowers. The clouds began to dissipate and the incredible peaks of Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau peeked out from across the valley. Read on, and check out the photos!

Descending through a verdant valley, with alpine peaks looming ahead.
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Grindelwald

Home base for a week of alpine hiking!

My first visit to Grindelwald was in fall 2019, after an incredible overnight stay at the alpine hut perched on the summit of Faulhorn mountain, with sunset views of the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau. It was so stunning that I brought my family back there in December, to see it in winter – and then again in June 2020, to hike from there up to Kleine Scheidegg in the shadow of the Eiger. Each visit to Grindelwald was magical, surrounded as it is by the stunning beauty of the Alpine peaks and pastoral meadows. So, despite its intense tourism (after all, I am hardly the first person to notice Grindelwald!) I decided Grindelwald would be an excellent base for a week of hiking with college friends. We rented a house on Vrbo, and settled in on Monday evening for a week-long stay.

View of the Eiger’s north face, from the bedroom balcony of our rental house.

In subsequent posts I will highlight each of our daily hikes, then wrap-up with a few photos of Grindelwald itself.

Iceland – Westfjords

A beautiful two days in the remote northwestern region of Iceland.

After a few days amongst throngs of tourists at the “Golden Circle” of sights near Reyjavik (see my prior post) we headed for the remote northwestern corner of Iceland, the Westfjords. We rented a rural house at the blue dot on the map below, and explored westerly from there – reaching the westernmost tip of Iceland, which is also the westernmost point in Europe. It required driving some remote, dusty, narrow, twisty, and sketchy roads… but also led us to stunningly beautiful landscapes. Read on! and check out the galleries linked below. 

We rented a house in the Westfjords (blue dot) and in Reykjavik, Iceland.
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Groundhog days

Seven groundhog pups!


Far in the back of our backyard is a pile of sticks – woody debris we’ve piled up for over 25 years as we trim trees and clear brush.  With time, the pile has decomposed and compressed into a thick, firm dome-shaped structure.  Last fall I discovered that some critter had burrowed under the pile.  This spring I placed one of my wildlife cameras a few feet from the entrance and, in early June, I started capturing video of a big fat groundhog (woodchuck) emerging from the burrow.  Then one day, I saw tiny faces appear deep in the burrow.  Within a day, seven groundhog pups were exploring the burrow’s “front yard.”  Wow, do these little pups have energy! Mama would come and go, presumably to feed (and perhaps to catch a little ‘me’ time), and sometimes to bring back a mouthful of dried leaves to freshen up the interior of their home.  Meanwhile, the pups would play, wrestle, climb, and explore. I collected hundreds of minutes of video capturing some fascinating behaviors; here, I edited it down to an eight-minute compendium of my favorite clips.  Settle in for eight minutes, and enjoy the video!

Wildflowers in foggy meadow

An hour wading among wildflowers on a summer morning.

A meadow near our home has been planted with wildflowers, bringing smiles to everyone who rides or drives by.  One foggy morning I spent a happy hour collecting photographs as the sun rose and started to burn off the fog.  Check out the full photo gallery!

Wildflowers along River Road in Lyme.

Many thanks to the Upper Valley Land Trust (UVLT) for conserving this former farm field, and to the landowners for planting beautiful wildflowers!

All images shot with Canon R5 with the RF 100-500 lens. 

Mount Cabot and The Horn

Bagging another two peaks – one NH48 and one 52WAV.

After bagging some of the more prominent New Hampshire peaks three days ago – in the Pemigewasset Wilderness, at the heart of White Mountain National Forest – I was still itching for another hike on this long holiday weekend. So early today my son and I headed back north, through the fog lining the Connecticut River Valley. We passed through the Sunday-morning quiet in small towns like Groveton and tiny towns like Stark, ending up on a remote gravel road leading to the New Hampshire Fish Hatchery near York Pond. As the sun struggled to beat back the morning fog, we dove into the damp, green forests below Mount Cabot. Our goal was an 11.5-mile triangular loop over Cabot and another less prominent – but more promising – bump called The Horn. Read on!

View from the summit of The Horn back toward Mount Cabot (at center) and The Bulge (at right).
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Galehead and South Twin

Two more 4000-footers, on July 4th!

The July 4th holiday provided me an opportunity to get back to the White Mountains, to revisit some peaks I had visited on my first days as a college student in 1982. The weather forecast looked good, and although a brief sprinkle spritzed my car as I approached the trailhead, spirits were high as I met up with two friends and their two dogs. Our goal was to climb two of New Hampshire’s 48 four-thousand-foot peaks: South Twin, and Galehead. We succeeded and had some fantastic views along the way. Read on!

The Gale River, along the Gale River Trail to Galehead hut.
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Lyme wildlife: June 2024

New surprises!

My wildlife cameras have been busy this month! With the return of spring, I placed a camera back down by the riverside… and started capturing the daily visits of a couple of Canada Geese and their brood of little goslings. As the weeks wore by, the goslings grew bigger… and fewer. (We started with four, then three, then two.) They were fun to watch, but the really cool stuff came later. Read on!

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