There are some days when the weather is so beautiful – and the calendar is so empty – that one simply must get up and go outside. Today was one of those days, with a forecast for full sun and nary a cloud. Today was the day to hop a train southeast and follow a classic track along the coast of the English Channel, south of London. I was well rewarded, indeed!
My route followed the easternmost section of the South Downs Way, a 100-mile (160 km) National Trail running along a chalk ridge from Winchester to Eastbourne entirely within the South Downs National Park in southern England. This section follows the edge of the spectacular chalk-white cliffs along the Channel, rolling up and down grassy slopes kept trim by grazing sheep. In today’s sunshine, the cliffs were brilliant white, the grass lush green, and the sky deep blue. From the sea, these hilly cliffs were known to sailors as the Seven Sisters, a helpful navigational aid when returning from a long voyage.
Two lighthouses along the route added emphasis to the challenge of navigating these waters, which have been essential to trade – and a pathway for invasion – for centuries. Indeed, smugglers made this particular coastline infamous from the thirteenth century to the eighteen century. More recent history was evident as well, as the route passes memorial markers from WW I and WW II, as well as a few ruins of defensive structures from the 1940s.
To add further emphasis, as I walked the final miles into Eastbourne, an RAF helicopter flew by low and fast, patrolling the shoreline. The English Channel continues to be a pathway for smugglers, though now serving refugees.
I enjoyed a fine lunch at the Pub near the cliffs at Beachy Head, and strolled the seaside promenade as I came into Eastbourne. There was so much beautiful scenery – rolling hills, dramatic cliffs, sheep and ponies in pasture, and more – you really must check out the photo gallery!
Hike stats:
Distance: 10.2 miles (16.4km)
Gain: 1,034 feet (315m)
Time: 3h58m (not including lunch)
For context, the hike is near the southern tip of southeast England:
David Kotz 