The weather was a bit iffy, but I decided to head (once again) south of London to the region of North Downs for an extended hike through the countryside. Today’s hike began and ended in the pretty village of Gomshall, and passed through the tiny (and even prettier) village of Shere. The route strolled alongside sheep and horse pastures, past historic churches, and along a forested ridgeline following the North Downs Trail. Other than for a brief drizzle, the sun was a companion and the scenery pleasant.
Although I always enjoy walking through a majestic forest, along the edge of green pastures, and past working farms, the highlights of this route (for me, today) were the quaint village of Shere and its 12th-century church. Built in 1190, St. James’ Church is clearly still an active church with a comfortable, homey feel. It is on the Pilgrims’ Way, “the historical route supposedly taken by pilgrims… to the shrine of Thomas Becket at Canterbury….”, which itself followed ancient tracks dating to 600 B.C.
Within St. James Church is a 13th-century Crusader’s Chest, placed there by Pope Innocent III to collect donations for the Crusades. I was astonished to find this 800-year-old chest simply sitting to one side, casually used as a shelf to store folding tables and writing supplies.
According to this page, it dates to c1200. That page also describes the anchorite Christine Carpenter, who had herself ‘enclosed’ – locked into a tiny cell attached to the church – for many years. Nearby, the tiny town of Shere is quaint and pretty; its tea rooms and cafés were full with others who were out for a walk on this raw January day.
Please see the photo gallery for more photos of the landscape, of Shere and St. James Church, and another Saxon-era church.
Hike stats:
Distance: 6.86 miles (11.0 km)
Time: 2h 45m (including stops)
Gain: 607 feet (185m)
Track in GaiaGPS
David Kotz 