On the third day of our week in Grindelwald we decided to hike one of the most classic routes in the area, from Schynige Platte to First – although in the opposite direction. My hike there in 2019 was one of the most moving hikes I’ve ever experienced, as the Alps emerged out of an undercast sky like so many islands in an endless sea. Today, I was thrilled to share it with friends!
Today, we hiked from First (reached by gondola from downtown Grindelwald) to Schynige Platte (reached by a historic cog railway that climbs into the mountains from a valley close to Interlochen). The weather was perfect, so we were treated to a day full of stunning vistas as we hiked the high country above Grindelwald, over the pointy peak of Faulhorn (with lunch at its summit hotel!), along the rocky ridgeline, through alpine meadows brimming with wildflowers, across a couple of stubborn snowfields, and past another hut at Männdlenen (with a stop for apfel strudel, of course!). Read on, and check out the gallery.
We were fortunate to step off the gondola at First (pronounced feerst) early in the morning, before the flow of tourists became a flood. Still, I felt compelled to stroll out onto the elevated walkway that hugs the rocky promontory and then juts out, like a sword stabbing at the alpine peak, into thin air. It is a vertiginous experience, but the views are truly astounding.
We hurried up the gravel walkway toward Bachalpsee – a beautiful tarn nestled in the valley between First and Faulhorn, and the destination for the majority of tourists who want to venture beyond the gift shops at First. It is a beautiful spot, indeed, where the Alpine view reflects off its waters during calm conditions.
From there it was switchbacks all the way to Faulhorn, with each step elevating and expanding our view of the Alps behind us. We could look across the valley to the hike we completed yesterday, in the valley of the Isemeer Glacier, or down the nearby slope to the hike we completed two days earlier, from Bussalp to Waldspitz. It was worth it, as we reached the summit hut and settled in for a sunny lunch at one of the most stunning restaurant views I’ve ever experienced.
Fortified, we scrambled down the steep slopes of Faulhorn’s summit – it really is a ‘peak’, spiking high above the surrounding terrain – and down the ridge to the west. The trail drops into a verdant valley to the north – browsed by cows working hard to produce Swiss cheese – and offering more vistas of the Alps foregrounded by wildflowers.
At this point we could be forgiven for thinking we were finished… but the trail winds its way around the head of several valleys, never losing or gaining much altitude, but (as a result) taking the “long way ’round”.
toward Schynige Platte train station – on the edge of the green ridge at center.
We arrived at the Schynige Platte station, with just enough time to enjoy an ice cream before the train arrived to return us to the valley. It’s hard to imagine a better way to end a hike! Be sure to check out the gallery for more photos.
Hike stats:
Distance: 16.6km (10.3 miles)
Time: 7h24m
Gain: 577m (1893′)
Our hike from two days earlier is shown in yellow, just below it, from left to right.
David Kotz 
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