Brighton

When I ask locals for tips about where we might explore, first, outside of London. Brighton beach is often on the list. Its historic pier is iconic, and the town itself includes several museums and historic sites. So we hopped on a train for a comfortable ride from downtown London directly to central Brighton, on a cloudy Saturday. Read on…

After a stroll through town, which includes a delightful mix of shops, cafes, pubs, and restaurants, including several traffic-free streets packed with small stalls selling handicrafts, we arrived at the Royal Pavilion. Built in late 1700s as a seaside retreat for King George IV, its architectural appearance immediately seems strikingly out of place. As Wikipedia notes, it was “built in the Indo-Saracenic style prevalent in India for most of the 19th century.”

Inside, now beautifully restored as a museum, the dissonance continues as the elaborate decor is includes distinctly east-Asian motifs. Impressive and attractive nonetheless, but what we found most interesting was the curator’s current thematic exhibition: Color. Each room celebrated a different color (blue, red, yellow, mauve, etc.), echoed in the paint, wallpaper, or furnishings, and with signage explaining the historic origins of the paints and dyes and the chemistry behind them. Fascinating!

One room recognized the important role of the Pavilion in World War I, when it was converted into a hospital for Indian troops. The contextual signage recognized Britain’s appreciation of, and treatment of, the Indian troops, while also bluntly acknowledging the differential treatment and racism in the culture and policies at the time. I thought it was a well-balanced, informative display; one sign is shown below.

After lunch we strolled down to the beach, made of small stones smoothed over decades by the gentle surf. Families enjoyed sitting or playing on the beach, though we only saw a few hardy souls out swimming. We paid our entry fee to explore the historic Brighton Palace Pier, first built in 1899. It offers some nice views, and is otherwise an arcade with carnival rides and all the associated trinket shops and snack foods one might imagine.

A worthwhile outing! Check out the photo gallery for a few photos of the pavilion, the beach, the pier, and street scenes.