September 2024 – Page 2

Japan, day 7 (September 9): Kagoshima, Sakurajima, and Sengan-en garden

Kagoshima, Sakurajima volcano, and the Sengan-en garden.

Jack, Katie, Pam, and David at Sakurajima Volcano, Kagoshima.

We sailed overnight back to the Japanese mainland, aiming for the city of Kagoshima, close to the southern tip. As usual, several of us were out on deck to enjoy the sunrise and our passage into port. Today, though, the ship paused as it arrived in port. Our berth in the port was taken by another ship, whose captain was missing! Several emergency vehicles were visible on the pier, leaving us mystified about the situation. Our bridge crew, and expedition team, pivoted remarkably quickly – and the ship moved around to the other side of the city and docked at the shiny new marine terminal (that is, a cruise-ship terminal). Although a beautiful location, it was farther from the center of town and thus farther from the ferry we were intending to catch. The expedition team did a fantastic job reshuffling all the schedules for the day, and soon we were on a bus to the ferry terminal. It all worked out… read on!

Japan, Day 6 (September 8): Yakushima Island

Hiking through a virgin cedar forest atop an ancient volcano.

The “Buddha Sugi”, a 1800-year-old cedar trees in the Yakusugi forest.

Overnight, the Resolution sailed out of the inland sea and south along Japan’s east coast. We spent the morning at sea, leaving Japan’s mainland behind as we headed for Yakushima Island. A small, round island, it is very tall – with 45 peaks over 1000m, made of granite – formerly, a lava plug inside a much taller volcano. It is one of the world’s wettest locations; the “annual precipitation in Yakushima is one of the world’s highest at 4,000 to 10,000 mm (160 to 390 in)” [Wikipedia], and its highest reaches are now a UNESCO world heritage site because it is covered in virgin forest. Read on, to learn more about our hike on this greenest of green islands.

Japan, Day 5 (September 7): Uwajima, Uchiko

After an overnight transit to Uwajima, along Japan’s inland sea, I was up on deck to watch the sun rise… directly over a mountain peak! As the sun rose and we pulled into Uwajima’s harbor, our ship was escorted by four local fishing vessels that had been elaborately decorated with banners and flags. On each boat there were one or two enthusiastic volunteers who were waving massive flags, all meant to welcome us to their city. [video]. Read on!

Fishermen arranged a colorful escort to welcome our ship to Uwajima.

Japan, Day 4 (September 6): Hiroshima

An incredibly moving experience.

Our trip around Japan has thus far been fascinating, as we experience the beauty of its landscape, the depth of its culture, and the friendliness of its people. Our afternoon visit to Hiroshima, however, was profoundly humbling and thought-provoking. Now a bustling metropolis of 1.2 million people sprawling across the broad delta of a river pouring into Japan’s inner sea, it was hard to visualize the day, just over 79 years ago in August 1945, when the Enola Gay dropped the world’s first nuclear weapon here – then a city of 350,000 souls. By the end of that year, 140,000 people had died. Please read on.

Atomic bomb dome – the ruins of a civic building damaged (but not destroyed) by the atomic bomb dropped on Hiroshima.

Japan, Day 4 (September 6): Miyajima

A visit to Miyajima island to explore the Itsukushima Shrine and the Buddhist temple above. Wild deer!

The Resolution sailed along the rocky shores of Miyajima island, surrounded by hundreds of oyster farms in the shallow waters near shore. Due to the shallow waters and congested port area, the Resolution held position offshore while we boarded Zodiac (inflatable motorboats) to reach the port at Miyajima [video]. This small island in Japan’s inland sea is home to only 1,400 people, most of whom support the bustling tourist industry … foreigners like us, as well as numerous locals who visit the famous Buddhist or Shinto shrines. Read on!

David and Pam ride the Zodiac to Miyajima Island, Japan.

Japan, Day 3 (September 5): Takamatsu

A visit to a bonsai farm, Shikoku-mura outdoor museum, and Ritsurin Gardens.

When we woke on the third day of our voyage we were in the port city of Takamatsu, on the northern shore of Japan’s inland sea. We visited a bonsai farm, an outdoor architectural museum, and Ritsurin Garden, a large, elaborate Japanese garden. Read on!

Sunrise over the inland sea of Japan, near Takamatsu.

Japan, Day 2 (September 4): Uno, Naoshima

Koraku-en garden, Naoshima island, and Benesse House Museum.

This morning we docked in Uno, toured Koraku-en garden, “one of the Three Great Gardens of Japan”, and this afternoon we went ashore in Zodiac boats to visit two modern-art museums on the tiny island of Naoshima. Read on!

A pumpkin sculpture at Benesse museum, on the beach at Naoshima island, Japan.

Japan, Day 1 (September 3): Kobe

Himeji Castle, Koko-En garden, and lunch on shore before boarding our ship, the National Geographic Resolution.

Today we joined our expedition group, toured sights near Kobe, and boarded our ship – the National Geographic Resolution. Read on!

Coastal Japan trip

The start of our next adventure.

We’re embarking today on the National Geographic Resolution, an arctic-class cruise ship identical to the ship (the Endurance) we sailed to South Georgia in March 2023. On this trip, Coastal Japan: Imperial Dynasties and Modern Culture, run by National Geographic on a ship managed by Lindblad Expeditions, Pam and I and my parents will be cruising along the southern coasts of Japan, and make a brief stop in South Korea, exploring many of the natural and cultural highlights of this beautiful region of the world. More to come, and you can be sure I’ll bring back lots of photographs!

Our planned route; slight deviations noted in subsequent posts.

The National Geographic (Lindblad) “Resolution”, in Uno, Japan.

Lyme wildlife – a walk in the forest

A weekly ritual.

I currently have six wildlife cameras in a hillside forest near home. Every week or two I take a walk, from one side of the hill, over the top, and down the other side, stopping to check each camera along the way. I enjoy the opportunity to be alone in the forest, off trail. I pick my own path, following my own sense of direction, recognizing familiar landmarks like a particular fallen tree, a fern-filled glade, or a notable boulder. I scan the forest floor for fresh tracks, listen for birdsong or the crackle of branches, and just immerse myself in the experience. I find it intellectually interesting and spiritually restorative – and a good workout, climbing up and down the steep hillside. Read on for the video!