Grindelwald – Berghaus Bäregg

For the second hike of our week-long visit to Grindelwald, we chose the opposite side of the valley, a deep canyon formed by the Ischmeer Glacier, whose remnants cling to the high slopes of 4000-meter peaks like Schreckhorn, Finsteraarhorn, and Feischerhorn.  Our primary goal was the Berghaus Bäregg – literally, mountain house at bear corner – which we rightly anticipated would provide a sunny lunch spot with spectacular views of the glacier.  Our stretch goal was to continue onward to Schreckhornhütte, another hut far upslope at elevation 2,527m.  Although we turned around when we reached 6,000’ (1829m) we enjoyed the sunny meadows strewn with wildflowers; views of glaciers and snowfields spawning massive waterfalls and cascades; and challenging sections of trail where it clung to the cliffside or crossed massive washouts.  And, a hearty lunch at the Berghaus!  Read on, and check out the gallery.

After a short bus ride through town, we hopped on the gondola to Pfingstegg, early in the morning before it was flooded with other tourists.  We strolled along the shady trail, largely level as it contoured around the corner and into the glacial valley.    The trail wound carefully along a shelf of the cliff, occasionally cut into the cliffside where necessary.  The glacial stream flowed far below us, milky blue with silt, while waterfalls plunged off the opposite cliff.  Eventually the trail switched-back and started to climb, entering the meadows above.  A cheerful sign, posted beside the trail, encouraged hikers that the hut was only 15 minutes further!  Soon, we were settling into a table on the hut’s sundeck, with its expansive view of the glaciers and peaks above.

A subset of the group chose to continue up the trail, “at least until it rounds the corner”.  Soon this trail became more rugged – and was relabeled blue (“white-blue-white” blazes indicate an expert trail, unlike the “white-red-white” trails we followed the rest of the week).  A recent storm, it seemed, had turned one of the small streams into a torrent that created a massive washout. Now a gash in the mountainside, strewn with boulders and debris, it was tricky to cross!  We pressed on, around the sharp corner, and expanded our view to see the left branch of the Ischmeer glacier.  With binoculars, we could barely pick out the Schreckhornhütte, far above.  Tummies rumbling for lunch, we soon turned around and rejoined the group at the berghaus for a hearty lunch.

Retracing our steps to descend, we enjoyed sunny views of Grindelwald far below. Across the valley, we could see the Faulhorn ridge in the clouds; we will tackle that ridgeline tomorrow! Before you go, be sure to check out the gallery!

Hike stats:
Distance:  11.7km (7.3mi)
Time: 7h23m
Gain: 765m (2,512ft)