Not long after leaving the Waiotapu thermal pools we stopped at Te Pā Tū (in Rotorua), a Māori village (pā) for a cultural experience. As we approached the gated, log entrance to this forested compound, we were welcomed into the marae (sacred space) through a traditional pōwhiri welcome ceremony. Several young warriors emerged into the clearing, carrying wooden batons; after an agressive-looking display, each gently placed a fern on the ground and backed away. One member of our party then approached, picked up the fern, and then (without losing eye contact), retreated backward to our group.
